How to Size a Water Heater (the First-Hour-Rating Method)

The deterministic method: size a tank by the busiest hour of hot-water use, a tankless by flow at your temperature rise.

Typical planning values. Your real hot-water use, incoming water temperature, recovery and efficiency vary by household, unit, fuel and region — confirm your unit’s rated First-Hour Rating, GPM and UEF on its EnergyGuide label and the manufacturer’s instructions. Round sizing up, and leave headroom for peak demand.

1 Enter your numbers

In your busiest hour
°F
°F
Colder in the north; see the inlet-temperature table
Your result
Recommended tank50-gallon (FHR ≥ 75)
Peak-hour demand75 gallons
Tankless equivalent≈ 5.5 GPM at a 70 °F rise

Size by the busy hour, not the headcount — a tank by First-Hour Rating (≥ 75 gal here → a 50-gallon tank), a tankless by GPM at your temperature rise. Round up and leave headroom.

The single most common sizing mistake is buying by headcount – “four people, get a 50” – when the honest, deterministic method sizes by the busiest hour of hot-water use. Two four-person homes can have very different peaks: back-to-back morning showers plus a load of laundry is a completely different demand from a staggered schedule.

The method has two branches. For a storage tank, add up every hot-water draw in your peak hour to get the peak-hour demand, then choose a tank whose First-Hour Rating (FHR) meets or beats it – FHR is what the tank actually delivers in that first busy hour (usable stored water plus what the burner or element reheats). For a tankless, size by flow: add the GPM of the fixtures you will run at once, at your temperature rise ΔT = output − inlet. This tool computes the peak and hands you both a tank recommendation and a tankless flow starting point.

Formula

Tank branch – add up the busiest hour, then match the First-Hour Rating:

peak_hour_demand = Σ(number_of_uses × gallons_per_use)

choose a tank with First-Hour Rating ≥ peak_hour_demand

Tankless branch – add simultaneous flow at your temperature rise:

required_GPM = Σ simultaneous fixture GPM, at ΔT = output_temp − inlet_temp

DOE planning draws (gallons per use): shower 20, bath 20, shave 2, hand/face 4, shampoo 4, dishwasher 6, food prep 5, clothes washer 7. The related peak-hour demand and tankless GPM tools drill into each branch.

Worked example

Take a family of four on a busy morning: 3 showers (3 × 20 = 60), 1 shave (2), 2 hand washes (2 × 4 = 8) and food prep (5). Peak-hour demand = 60 + 2 + 8 + 5 = 75 gallons. So you want a tank rated to an FHR of about 75 – in practice a 50-gallon gas tank with a strong burner reaches an FHR near 75, which is why “a 50” often is the answer for a family of four, just for the right reason.

On the tankless side, at 120 °F output and 50 °F inlet you are sizing for a 70 °F rise, and running two showers at once (about 2.0 GPM each) puts you near 4–5.5 GPM – a whole-house gas tankless class. Note the trap: a colder northern inlet raises the required rise and cuts a tankless unit’s usable GPM, so size for your winter, not your summer.

Measure the busy hour, not the headcount

Getting a right-sized unit comes down to a few honest inputs:

  • Find your real peak hour. It is usually the morning rush or the evening bath-plus-dishes window. Count the draws that actually overlap, not the daily total.
  • Use your winter inlet temperature for a tankless. Southern inlet water might be 65–70 °F; northern can be 40–50 °F, and the colder number is what strains a tankless.
  • Round up and leave headroom. An undersized unit runs out of hot water mid-shower; a slightly oversized one just costs a little more to buy. When in doubt, round up.

Common mistake: sizing a tankless by gallons, or a tank by GPM – they use different currencies (flow vs first-hour delivery). Confirm the unit’s rated FHR and GPM on its EnergyGuide label before you buy, and read the full sizing guide for the reasoning.

Reference table

HouseholdStorage tank (gal)First-Hour Rating (gal)Tankless (GPM)
1–2 people30–4040–553–5
2–3 people40–5050–655–7
3–4 people50–6060–756–8
5+ people60–8075–908–10

Labeled starting bands – always beat them with your own peak-hour demand. See the full size-by-household table.

Frequently asked questions

How do I know what size water heater I need?
Add up every hot-water use in your busiest hour to get the peak-hour demand, then pick a tank with a First-Hour Rating at or above it (or a tankless sized for the peak GPM at your temperature rise). Headcount alone is a poor proxy.
What size water heater for a family of 4?
A typical busy-morning peak for four people is around 75 gallons (three showers, a shave, a couple of hand washes and food prep), which a 50-gallon gas tank with a strong burner (FHR ~75) or a whole-house tankless can meet. Confirm against your actual routine.
What is First-Hour Rating and why does it matter?
First-Hour Rating is the gallons a tank actually delivers in the first busy hour – usable stored hot water plus recovery. Two same-size tanks can have very different FHRs depending on the burner or element, so FHR, not gallons, is the number to match to your peak. See the FHR calculator.
How do I size a tankless water heater instead of a tank?
Size by flow: add the GPM of the fixtures you will run at once, at your temperature rise (output − inlet). A colder inlet cuts a unit’s usable GPM, so use your winter number. The tankless sizing calculator does the math.
Should I just buy the biggest water heater to be safe?
No – an oversized tank wastes standby energy and costs more, while a right-sized unit with a little headroom is ideal. Size to your peak hour, round up modestly, and stop there.